Hunting Dogs
Using a well-trained dog can increase the effectiveness and enjoyment of many hunting situations. Dogs extend the hunters ability to find game, give a warning of its presence, and help hunters cover territory more completely. An untrained dog may cause more problems than its help is worth. Good dogs enable hunters to recover downed game more effectively. Their game locating ability reduces stress on the hunter and desire to take unwarranted shots. They also extend the hunting season by activities beyond the season. Dog work and companionship reduce stress and add to the aesthetic beauty of the hunt. George Bird Evans rightly states that the experience of hunting is enhanced when the game is matched by a man-dog-gun combination worthy of it.
Basic Care of Gun Dogs
Caring for and training a dog are major investments of time, energy, money, and affection. The cost of a good dog, well suited to your needs, is a relatively minor part of that investment. Knowing your wants is important to selecting the right type of gun dog and the breed within that group. Whatever breed is chosen, getting an animal from proven hunting stock is important. In many cases, selective breeding for show characteristics is detrimental to hunting or field performance; but high performance dogs can look good, too. That is if they are bred for a combination of characteristics.
Not only should the breed be selected for its qualities, but also the personality of the dog should be matched to the task and the personality of the hunter. A fiery, strong-willed dog may be fine for field trials but a poor choice for a gentle, new trainer. Most breeders know a number of psychological tests that aid in picking a puppy.
Regardless of breed, basic health care is critical to the animal. Immunizations for common dog diseases like distemper, leptospirosis, hepatitis, and parvovirus can save the dog’s life. Rabies vaccination is essential for field dogs. Prophylactic treatment for heartworm, fleas, ticks, and other parasites is a good precaution where they are indicated. Periodic inspection for roundworms and tapeworms is also available.
The dog needs an adequate ration of high quality, nutritionally balanced food. Most commercial foods are fine. Some owners prefer to feed their dogs on a schedule. Others provide both food and water as the dog desires them. Puppies raised on an ad-lib food and water generally learn to regulate their intake to their needs. When dogs are working hard, their usual ration may need to be supplemented to allow them to maintain their conditioning. Both fat and skinny dogs are less effective in the field than those that are properly conditioned. Water is vital to any dog’s health and should be available as needed.
Housing is essential for the health and well being of your gun dog. Some form of confinement or control is essential to the dog’s training, health, and safety. Unconfined and uncontrolled dogs tend to get into trouble, develop bad habits and are more at risk from accidents and health problems.
Although some people believe that making a pet of a gun dog ruins it in the field, others maintain the relationship between the family members and the dog is strengthened by living with people. Many breeds can successfully serve as both pet and hunting companion. Doing so requires training, sometimes for both the dog and the people involved. “Indoor” dogs need plenty of exercise and outdoor exposure in order to become conditioned and fit, particularly in severe conditions.
Some dog owners stake or chain their dogs, providing secure shelter from the elements. Overhead or ground level cables are often used to permit the dog to cover more ground without dragging excessive amounts of chain behind them. Sanitation is important in these situations, and the dogs should be checked frequently to make sure they are able to move freely and are well. Many owners of large hound breeds select this method of control.
The use of some type of kennel is among the most common ways of confining and controlling a gun dog. Warm, secure shelter is essential, and the surfacing or substrate of the kennel should be chosen carefully. Soil is a poor choice. While it is easy on the dog’s feet, it is very difficult to clean and disinfect. Gravel poses problems for sanitation and the control of parasites and disease, but it is an outstanding conditioner for gun dog feet. Although concrete is not the best substrate for feet, it is the easiest of the common base materials for kennels to clean and disinfect.
Basic Gun Dog Training
All dogs need a few basics of control to be useful in the field. Basic obedience training can begin as soon as the pup comes home. The dog will need to know who is in charge and that you mean what you say. Many short sessions of training, about 15 to 20 minutes at a time every day or several times a day is much better than longer periods at greater intervals. Usually, positive reinforcement of desired behaviors with praise or rewards is the best teaching method. With puppies that have a strong desire to please, this approach can be used almost exclusively. Negative reinforcement may be necessary in some circumstances. This may take the form of sharp words, picking the dog up at arm’s length or mild punishment. Excessive use of negative reinforcement, or strong punishment, like the use of shock collars, can ruin a dog. Negative training techniques should be used with caution and only as a last resort.
Every breed can profit from learning a few basic control commands, like sit, stay, come, and heel. Any basic dog obedience course will help with the process. The dog should learn one command at a time, and each session should end with a review of things it knows well. Hand and/or whistle signals should be build in early, and they should be simple and clear. Avoid signals that demand excessive movement, particularly for retrievers.
The dog should also learn to live with people, even if it is purely kenneled. It needs to know that “No!” or whatever substitute used to mean that (pointers may confuse “no” and “Whoa”) means stop doing what they are doing. A barker is a nuisance in many situations, so “quiet” may also be a necessary command. A “polite” dog is much more helpful in getting permission to hunt private land than is an unruly one. Shaking “hands,” giving up retrieved game to the command “thank you,” and similar refinements can be nice touches.
Most types of sporting dogs need some special handling commands. Hounds need very few additional commands. Some say they are too hard headed. The hound tends to hunt game, with the hunter working for the hound. Other types of gun dogs need directional commands or additional handling commands to maintain remote control over their range or activity. Pointers may need to understand “steady” as they feel the need to move on a point. When they hunt in a wide array of cover types, pointing breeds may need to understand a wider array of control commands so the handler can assist the dog in making long, blind retrieves. In addition to the “back” command, they must understand “in” and “over” with a hand signal. Numerous books and manuals are available that will assist the new trainer in producing a well-trained dog.
Types of Dogs and Their Behavior
Hounds – Hounds are basically trailing animals. Most hunting breeds use their noses to follow selected game. The hunter hunts with the hound. Most of them accept or tolerate only minimal control and become very single minded when working game. The hunter intercepts trailed, flushed, treed, or bayed fame. Hounds are selected for their independence, drive, and voice quality as well as scenting ability.
Retrievers – Nearly the opposite end of the hunter-dog partnership spectrum are the retrievers. They tend to hunt or work for their handler. Their primary task is retrieving downed game, but they also function well as flushing dogs. Some retrievers also point naturally or after training. Most use both air and ground scent to locate game. They need to be eager, enthusiastic, strong, and responsible to their owners. Retrievers need direction commands so the handler can assist them in long, difficult retrieves. Most retrievers used in both marsh and upland are started on the marsh job first.
Flushing Dogs – Most spaniels are adapted to locating and flushing game. They are good retrievers as a rule, but their main job is flushing hidden game. They must stay under the handler’s control, even, or particularly, when “making game.” They must be vigorous, energetic dogs with excellent responsiveness. Teaching the dog to sit or “hup” is critical to hunting success with a flushing dog.
Pointing Dogs – Several breeds of dogs have a natural tendency to freeze or point when they scent game. Hunters use pointers mainly for hunting upland birds. Some retrieve naturally, other must be taught to retrieve. Sometimes the dog will refuse to retrieve, but” point dead.” Pointers are trained to hold appoint until the hunter flushes the game, to cover their hunting area systematically, and to adapt their range to the conditions. Preferences in pointers vary with the habitat. Open country allows for wide ranging dogs if the birds will hold. Flighty birds or dense cover call for close working dogs. In either case, pointers are selected for style and “bird sense.”
No matter what kind of dog you choose, training it to hunt with you will help you become a better hunter. You will also increase your pleasure afield.
