Archery Equipment for the Hunter
Today’s bowhunter is faced with a bewildering array of tackle and equipment. Some of those items are essential. Some of them are very helpful. Others are merely gadgets or gimmicks designed to separate the Bowhunter from their paper bucks. Is this session we will be looking at equipment and discussing some considerations for selecting equipment for the hunting archer.
Bows
The majority of modern bowhunters use compound bows of some design. These bows offer a mechanical advantage that reduces the draw force needed at full draw. That same mechanical advantage helps the archer extract more of the energy used in drawing the bow as acceleration for the arrow. The result is increased arrow speed and flatter trajectory over bowhunting ranges.
In spite of the mechanical advantages of the compound bow, many bowhunters prefer to use equipment that is more traditional. They use recurve bows or the traditional straight longbow. Most of them choose these tools for the history and tradition or aesthetic reasons, but they offer greater smoothness in the draw, better release characteristics, and lighter weight as well. Longbows are usually self-bows, meaning they are one-piece bows; but takedown models are available for many recurve bows. This permits the archer to change limbs if desired or needed.
Selecting a Bow for Bowhunting
Many factors enter into the selection of a bowhunting bow. Adequate performance for the task at hand is one of the most important, and personal preference rivals performance for the hunter. Using inadequate equipment violates ethical bowhunting principles. In most areas, it is also illegal.
Draw weight is one of the major considerations, regardless of the type of bow selected. Experienced bowhunters often advise using the heaviest equipment that can be handled effectively. Ability to handle the bow effectively is critical. The archer must be able to shoot it accurately and without discomfort or excessive movement. A bow that is too heavy for the shooter encourages poor shooting form and is likely to cause poor hits because of inaccurate shooting. Many beginning bowhunters tend to over-bow themselves, demanding equipment in the 60 to 80 pound range or even higher. For most applications, bows drawing 50 to 55 pounds are adequate.
Heavier bows tend to shoot faster, therefore flatter trajectory, arrows, even when they require heavier arrow to have adequate spine. The heavier, faster arrow has greater momentum and achieves penetration than a lighter, slower one. The minimum performance criterion for a hunting bow should be adequate cast (the ability if the bow to propel an arrow) to achieve complete penetration of the game animal being hunted using a razor sharp Broadhead at the maximum range of shots taken. At that same distance, the archer should be able to keep all shots in the animal’s kill zone.
Since archers tend to develop an ability to handle heavier equipment rather quickly, adjustable draw weight is an advantage. An archer could start out with a bow set at about 45 pounds and increase draw weight to 60 pounds as their strength and endurance increase. The same advantage can be attained by the ability to interchange limbs. A light set of limbs, perhaps 35-45 pounds, could be used for target shooting and summer practice; and a heavier set in the 55-65 pound class could be used for hunting. With a little practice, most archers can easily adjust to that level of change.
The materials used in constructing the limbs govern their potential performance. Solid limbs may be more durable, but laminated limbs are lighter for the same strength. That results in quicker recovery and greater arrow speed. Boron or graphite fibers are stiffer and lighter than glass, but they are also much more expensive.
Limb design also has an impact on performance. Recurved limbs and reflexed limbs may provide more cast than a comparable straight limb. Shorter limbs provide a quicker recovery at the cost of smoothness in the draw, “stacking” (rapid increase in the drawing effort required) and the finger pinch from the sharp angle between the drawing fingers and the limb tips. The mass of the wheels or cams and their hangars also affects limb speed and arrow speed.
The form and construction of the handle and riser section of the bow is another major consideration. The weight and length of the riser affects the stability and “feel” of the bow. Metal risers are very cold under cold hunting conditions. Wood risers tend to be better insulators but may be heavier, more bulky, and less strong. Insulating grips or saddles for the shooting hand can reduce the icy feel of a metal riser, but they may alter the shape of the riser with impacts on shooting form. The riser may be equipped with an arrow shelf, rest, cushion plunger, adjustable arrow plate, or an overdraw. Any of these must be compatible with your shooting style. Overdraws permit the use of a shorter, lighter arrow for increased speed and flatter trajectory. While this makes errors in range estimation less critical, it reduces the mass of the arrow with potential impacts on penetration. Remember, a Broadhead kills by penetration (mass x velocity), not kinetic energy (mass x velocity2/2). Use of the overdraw also demands greater precision in shooting form, since the pivot point for the bow and the pivot point for the arrow are not in the same plane.
The physical weight and size of the bow may be important considerations. A bow that is excessively heavy will be tiring to carry in the field or blind, increasing the need for movement when game is sighted. It also will be more tiring to shoot until stamina is developed. The heavier bow will be more stable, however. General size has an impact on movement through heavy cover, portability and storage; although this is seldom the problem that many make it out to be.
The accessories available for the bow and their ease of attachment may be considerations as well. Nearly every manufacturer has a mounting system that matches their equipment with their bows. Consider the stability of those mounts and the ease of using them. Notice whether they are quiet or noisy during the draw, shooting or in transport. Are the sights or other accessories of acceptable and useful design for you? All of these things and many more are part of selecting a hunting bow.
Arrows for Hunting
An old Indian is reported to have said, “Any bow, good bow. Arrow much work.” Arrows must be straight, matched in mass and spine and matched to the bow for best performance. Arrows flex around the riser of the bow in order to fly straight, even with bows cur to true centershot. This is known as the archer’s paradox. Paradox is much more significant for finger shooters than for those using release aids, and it factors into the tuning process for the bow. The spine or stiffness of the arrow determines how much the arrow will flex during the release. An arrow that is too soft will tend to curve around the bow, striking to the bow-hand side of the intended point of impact. One that is too stiff will tend to fly to the string-hand side. In general, bowhunters should err on the stiff side rather than the soft side, since the mass of the Broadhead and the length of the arrow both tend to “soften” the arrow’s spine. Use a manufacturer’s chart for a starting place, but experiment to see which arrows give the best performance in your bow as it is set up.
Shafts may be made of wood (usually Port Orford cedar), fiberglass, graphite, aluminum, or some combination of those materials. Each type of material has advantages and disadvantages for the bowhunter. Wood is the traditional material, but it is difficult to match completely and to keep straight. Each of the other materials is more easily matched in mass and stiffness. Aluminum (particularly premium grades) and graphite currently dominate hunting shafts. Some health concerns have been expressed with graphite shafts because tiny splinters of the material may become imbedded in the flesh around the wound. These thin, stiff fibers can penetrate the digestive tract, causing severe problems if they are swallowed. Shooters using graphite arrows are advised to cut out the area around the wound channel and discard the flesh where it cannot be eaten by pets or other animals.
Arrow mass is important. It contributes to conservation of momentum when the arrow is in flight. It contributes to consistency in the point of impact if variations in mass are allowed. It also dampens the shock of the bow being fired. The current AMO (Archery Manufacturer’s Organization) recommendation for arrow mass is six (6) grains for every pound of draw weight (peak). Shooting arrows weighing less than standard is the equivalent of dry firing the bow and may result in bow failure.
Fletching for Arrows
Fletching is used to stabilize the arrow. In general, bowhunters use two types of fletching materials: feathers and vanes. Feathers are the traditional fletching material. Most commercial feather fletching comes from the flight feathers of turkeys, but feathers from other large birds, like geese or swans, could be used. They are softer, more air resistant materials than plastic vanes. They are essential for any bow that shoots off the arrow shelf. Since feathers create more noise in flight, producing a hissing or whooshing sound. Because of their structure, they are affected more by wet weather than are plastic vanes.
Plastic vanes are generally constructed of a soft, resilient plastic that is highly resistant to weather and extremely consistent in performance. They require the use of an arrow rest for optimal performance. They have less air resistance than feathers, resulting in less drag, higher arrow speed and less control or “forgiveness” compared to feathers. Vanes are quieter in flight than feathers, but the hiss or whoosh may be replaced by a high-pitched whine from aluminum shafts. Their durability and resistance to weather make vanes a preferred type of fletching for many bowhunters.
A perfectly shot arrow from a perfectly set-up bow might require no fletching at all. Unfortunately, most people are not perfect, particularly when they are excited and trying to make a good shot on a game animal. An adequate amount of fletching compensates at least partially for those errors in shooting form and bow tuning. Increased amounts of fletching result in decreased arrow speed, but speed is traded off for control and stability. Heavy arrows with heavy heads require larger amounts of fletching. The standard in hunting arrows is approximately 15 to16 inches of vane or feather divided into three or four sections. Three-fletched arrows generally use three, five-inch feathers or vanes set at equally spaced (120 degree) locations around the shaft. Four-fletched arrows usually use four five-inch feathers or vanes set at either equal 90-degree intervals or at 75 and 105 degrees for greater cable clearance on compounds. With three-fletch, and indicator feather (cock feather, to old timers) should be facing away from the sight window, while four-fletch has no index vane to consider.
Either type of fletching may be applied in several ways. Straight fletch, where the fletching material is in alignment with the axis of the shaft offers the greatest speed and least control. Offset fletching is merely straight fletch aligned at a slight angle to the axis of the shaft. It offers slightly more control at a minor loss in arrow speed. Helical fletching places the fletching in a spiral relative to the long axis of the shaft. It offers the highest level of control and loss of speed among the three types. Most serious bowhunters use offset or helical fletching to increase flight stability, preferring to trade some speed for better accuracy under variable conditions.
Other fletching styles may be used for specialized conditions. Arrows used for birds or small game may be fletched with full-length feathers wound around the shaft or with six, full height feathers. These fletching styles, known as flu-flus, control the flight of the arrow, slowing it to a halt relatively quickly and making recovery of the arrow easier.
Arrowheads
Bowhunters use a wide variety of hunting heads and several means of attachment for them. Many prefer to use screw-in points that may be changed quickly when desired. Using a lubricating material, like petroleum jelly, on the threads of these screw-in adapters is vitally important. It prevents the materials in the adapter and the point from reacting and corroding the parts together permanently. On the other hand, the heads should be checked for tightness before being used. Losing a Broadhead in flight to a perfect shot can be a bit frustrating.
When selecting target or field points for practice or small game hunting, the wise archer matches the points with his or her broadheads for performance. Since the critical shooting takes place with the broadheads, tune the bow for them; then find a field or target point that shoots to the same point of impact. Many small game bowhunters use blunts constructed of rubber, metal, or hard plastic.
Choosing a broadhead usually results in a great deal of opinion being expressed by every experienced archer in the vicinity, and it is a great way to start an argument among bowhunters. They all agree on a few points:
1. The broadhead must be razor sharp.
Razor sharp edges cut blood vessels effectively. Others do not.
2. The broadhead must be large enough to kill quickly.
The minimums are often stated in law, but cutting widths of between 7/8 and 1-1/4 inch are most common.
3. The broadhead must fly truly and in a predictable manner.
Everyone has a different opinion about which ones fly best, but vented blades seem to be
more easily tuned than solid ones and the bow needs to be tuned with the broadheads as they will be used in the field.
4. The broadhead must be durable and tough.
Fragile broadheads may come apart if they hit bone, losing their integrity. The broadhead should remain functional even if it hits bone on the way in.
5. The broadhead must not be barbed on the backside.
Ethical considerations demand that an arrow be easily removable so a non-vitally hit animal can pull it and allow rapid healing to take place.After these points are agreed upon, the debate begins in earnest. Some archers prefer broadheads with replaceable, pre-sharpened blades. Others prefer fixed blades that can be sharpened and honed to razor sharpness by the archer. Among those who sharpen their own, some prefer a filed edge, leaving a fine wire edge on the steel. Others use stones and a razor strop to put a highly polished edge on the steel. Jagged edges and “teeth” tend to clog with hair and fatty tissue, reducing the effectiveness of the head; so even though they looked wicked and effective, they should not be used.
A few archers prefer a two-bladed design where only two cutting edges are provided. Some prefer as many as six cutting blades. Most archers are shooting broadheads with three, four or five cutting edges. These may be sharp to the tip of the head, dubbed off at the end to form a chisel point designed to slide off heavy bone, or conical at the tip. The so-called “punch point” heads have both supporters and detractors. Supporters usually comment on the quality of the blood trail. Detractors usually express concern about adequate penetration. The best advice is to try several types on hay bales, sand banks, or sawdust piles before using them on game. Carefully observe their performance on game animals, and stick with one that works well for you and gives you confidence.
Hunting archers also find ample use for some specialty heads. Small game hunters and big game hunters looking for a tune-up arrow often use spring-loaded heads, like the judo head. The spring-loaded wires projected from the head tend top make it stand up in cover, making it easier to retrieve. Bird hunters may shoot heads featuring wire loops or even a set of steel darts to increase the effective size of the arrow. Bowfishermen use some form of harpoon design to hold the fish on the arrowhead until it can be retrieved. Turkey or pheasant hunting archers often use some type of device to limit penetration and keep the arrow in the bird.
Quivers
Although bowhunting is usually a one-shot game, most archers carry more than one arrow. Some form of safe, secure, and convenient arrow carrying system is needed. Several types of quivers are available. Bow quivers are convenient to carry, and they place the arrows within easy reach without demanding too much movement. They add to the weight of the bow, but that added weight may tend to stabilize the bow during a shot. They have a relatively limited capacity. The exposed fletching may attract attention from some species or create a flash of color when the bow is moved. Bow quivers must completely cover the broadheads and keep them securely in position to protect them from damage.
Hip quivers share many characteristics with bow quivers. Their capacity is relatively small. The heads are well covered and well protected, but the exposed fletching can be a source of attention. They may be a bit noisy when moving through heavy cover, and their open design attracts leaves, twigs, other debris as well as water and snow. They are easy to use with minimum movement that is easily concealed. They are also light and comfortable to wear.
Back quivers come in several styles as well. St. Charles quivers and similar designs hold each arrow individually with either the broadhead or the fletching covered by a hood or cowl. They are relatively cumbersome and may be very noisy when moving through thick cover. They do offer greater capacity and some shielding for the part of the arrow that is inside the cowl or hood. Motion required to remove an arrow can be concealed behind the back, but where cutting edges are exposed there is some risk of injury to the fingers. Traditional back quivers generally offer inadequate protection for the broadheads, allowing them to dull each other or to be dulled by contact with the quiver material itself. They can be noisy, even when stuffed to reduce arrow rattle; and the motion required to remove an arrow is high and relatively obvious. Their greater advantage is large capacity.
Bowhunting Clothing
Bowhunting is a close range affair. It demands that the hunter be able to get close to his or her prey or that the animal be allowed to get close to the hunter. That requires the hunter to be quiet and concealed in some fashion. Camouflage clothing is a great aid in getting close. The function of camouflage clothing is to break up the predator into non-threatening parts or to cause the predator to blend into the environment. The first type of camouflage is known as disruptive camouflage. It should feature some strong contrasts that tend to disrupt the outline of the hunter’s body. The second type is cryptic camouflage. It should cause the disrupted form of the hunter to blend into the background. Most types of camo clothing involve the use of both strategies.
Many camouflage-clothing patterns exist for a wide variety of habitats and conditions. Its base color, mix of colors and pattern contribute to the utility of the garment. Camouflage exists in leaf patterns, striped patterns, bark patterns, desert patterns, white or snow patterns, and brightly colored “safety camouflage. In addition to the various patterns, camouflage clothing comes in a variety of color combinations. For animals that see color (most do so to some extent), an excellent pattern that differs sharply in color or intensity from the background still stands out. Very dark camouflage is often best in country dominated by evergreens. Green-on-green camouflage is excellent for late spring and early fall. Brown-on-brown camo may be the best choice for late fall through early spring. Think about the cover, then plan the clothing to blend with it while disrupting your outline.
Bowhunting is a close range affair that involves necessary motion. As a result, the bowhunters needs to pay attention to details of his or her camouflage. Regardless of skin color, bare skin shines. As contrast between the skin and the background increases the need for concealment increases. Head nets and gloves are one solution. The use of camouflage creams or waxes is another. The bowhunter should pay particular attention to masking their eyes and eyelids. A completely camouflaged face without eyelid camo results in twin flashes each time the eye is blinked. With camo treatment of the eyelid, the shooter can squint to prevent blinking and hide the eyes from the animal. Since forward facing eyes are common in predators and eyes fixed on a prey animal are a pre-attack signal, obvious eyes are a clear threat. At 10 or 15 yards, the threat can cost you a shot.
A good camouflage hat is very helpful to the bowhunter as well. By shading the eyes, it makes them less prominent. It seems to sharpen perception, particularly in areas with patches of sun and shade. The hat is also important in regulating body temperature. In cold environments, a stocking cap may be a wise choice, bur Jones-style hats with a relatively short bill are most commonly used. Folding down the side and rear portions of the brim provides some extra concealment and breaks the outline of the head. The short brim does not interfere with the string at full draw, as some other types of hats may. Pick something that works for you and stick with it.
The construction of the clothing is also important to success and utility. The clothing should be soft enough to be quiet in contact with twigs and brush or during necessary movement in preparation for a shot. It should be roomy enough to allow freedom of movement and to permit the hunter to layer clothing for the variety of conditions that might be encountered on a hunt. At the same time, it must be controlled to keep the clothing from interfering with the string on a shot. Hunting style and local conditions will dictate the type and variety of clothing needed, but even hunting from a stand involves a combination of active and passive phases. Dressing solely for either phase is an excellent way to be miserable during others. Layering and careful selection of clothing are two of the best ways to avoid overheating and chilling. For those who do their hunting under cool or cold conditions, avoiding wind chill and hypothermia are critically important considerations.
Foul weather protection is another important concern. Being prepared for foul weather can add substantial amounts of hunting time. The archer must consider both their personal protective gear and ways of preparing their equipment for inclement weather. The key is to keep all of the equipment, including body parts, in functioning condition under the existing conditions.
Foul weather poses some ethical questions as well. When should the archer quit hunting for ethical reasons. If the conditions deteriorate to the point where recovery of a game animal becomes questionable, an ethical bowhunter will pass up offered shots. Use of a tracking aid (“shooting string) can reduce the limitations on the shooter somewhat.
An additional clothing or gear consideration involves adequate cargo space for the additional gear being carried on the hunt. Pockets, a fanny pack, a day bag, or some other type of cargo carrier may be used. Our fully prepared archer is demonstrating his/her preferences. You need to determine what your needs and wants are and how best to handle them.
Other Bowhunting Equipment and Accessories
Safety and Comfort – Every bowhunter should carry a basic set of safety equipment adapted to their hunting area. A basic first aid kit, particularly materials needed to handle minor cuts and scrapes, is essential. Blade injuries are among the most common circumstances requiring first aid. A simple cut on a shooting finger could be a hunt ender unless the bowhunter is prepared with an adhesive bandage to cover, protect, and pad the cut. In some areas or for some persons, the kit may need to be expanded to include essential medications, an insect sting kit, a snakebite kit, or similar materials. The camp or car kit should be more comprehensive.
In addition to the first aid supplies, the archer should be prepared with a basic survival kit suitable to the terrain, climate, weather, and circumstances. At a minimum, the archer should carry emergency shelter (like a light mylar sheet), signaling equipment (shooting three arrows in the air dies not usually bring help), a map of the area with a compass and knowledge of how to use them, and a lighter or waterproof matches. Many archers include a miniature flashlight with fresh batteries, some toilet paper in a plastic bag, and a few foil-wrapped, moist towelettes as well. While camouflage toilet paper is not essential, the use of white paper should be discouraged. White is a releaser of for some big game hunters, looking like the flag on a whitetail.
Several other items could be considered part of the safety equipment. A broadhead wrench is essential for handling sharp broadheads safely. Any tree stand hunter must have a safety belt or safety line. He or she also needs a hauling line to hoist or lower their equipment. Some hunters include differently shaped bottles to hold water or other drinks and the end products of those drinks. You may want to think about the gear you need or want on your safety and comfort list.
Game Recovery and Handling
A wise bowhunter goes afield fully prepared for success. Game recovery can be aided by carrying some type of trail marking material. I like to mark the spot from which the shot was taken and the spot where the animal was standing as soon as possible. A sparse blood trail can be a challenge unless the back trail is adequately marked to help predict the direction the animal has taken. Many marking materials are useful. Some archers prefer a colored toilet paper because it breaks down quickly when it gets wet. That does not require retracing the route and removing the tape after the animal is recovered. Others prefer engineer’s flagging tape in a bright color. Although it must be removed after the animal is recovered, the bright colors are easy to see. I like to roll about 10 to 15 yards of the material in a small cylinder and tape it down with masking tape. Two or three of these packages take up very little space in a pack or pocket, and one is usually plenty for most recovery tasks, even when the animal is leaving a sparse blood trail.The set of field dressing tools varies with the locality and the animals being pursued. I like to carry a knife, crock sticks, and/or stones and a small folding saw as basic cutting tools and sharpening tools. A small roll of electrical tape can be helpful in attaching a tag. A box of dental floss will find many uses during the field dressing process or as a means of attaching a carcass tag to the animal. A large plastic bag is an excellent addition for transporting the liver, heat, and/or kidneys.
If the animal is large and must be quartered to be retrieved, a block and tackle and a set of cloth meat sacks can be extremely useful. Even a fairly light block can help a lone bowhunter handle an elk or a moose. The meat sacks can be sewn at home using a light muslin. A large can of black pepper or a spray bottle of pepper solution (e.g. Liquid Game Bag) can be a significant aid in fly control during warm weather. For personal safety, hunters may want to use field-dressing gloves (kitchen gloves work just fine) when dressing animals that might carry brucellosis, tularemia, or similar diseases.
The final stage of animal handling is getting the critter out of the field and to camp, boat, or wheeled transportation. Small game can be carried in the hands or a game bag, but some precautions might be advised with turkeys. I wrap the birds in a broad band of blaze orange cloth to help other hunters see that the bird is not strutting upside down. A drag rope can be used to skid most smaller big game animals to a location where other means of transport are available. A pack frame and liberal amounts of blaze orange or other fluorescent tape can be used with quarters and capes or larger animals. Wheeled “mules” can be very useful in retrieving game animals as well. Some bowhunters have even mechanized the mule or horse using three or four-wheel ATVs to pack out game. Others may use boats or canoes. Regardless of the means, remember to take it easy with these chores. Avoid over-exertion and rushing. Both of them make you more likely to have accidents that could have been avoided.
Bowhunting is an exciting and demanding sport. It requires preparation, adequate equipment, and knowledge of proper use. Study the sport. Talk to other bowhunters. Read about tools and techniques. Most of all, make the tools and your personal selection of gear fit the task, terrain, climate, weather, and other conditions that affect your circumstances.
